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Topic Starter Topic: Re: The Dawn Wall

Elite
Elite
Joined: 28 Nov 2000
Posts: 9847
PostPosted: 01-18-2015 07:35 PM           Profile Send private message  E-mail  Edit post Reply with quote


SoM wrote:
i ripped it out of the page source, didn't want to link straight to vidmax


Sorr, was referring to obsidian and his gif embed above that caused my reply to write out at 1 character per 10 seconds :)




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I'm the dude!
I'm the dude!
Joined: 04 Feb 2002
Posts: 12283
PostPosted: 01-18-2015 08:13 PM           Profile Send private message  E-mail  Edit post Reply with quote


I didn't realize it was that big... lol... people with slow internets, etc.

Regarding Alex Honnold... He's a madly amazing climber, one of the world's best. He typically free-solos routes that are a piece of cake for him, but quite difficult for most other climbers. The risks he takes seems incredibly large for most people (and rightly so), but are easily acceptable for someone with his ability. He practices most of his free-soloing routes, cleans the routes of any loose rocks, and makes sure that it is well within his range of ability.



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Cool #9
Cool #9
Joined: 01 Dec 2000
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PostPosted: 01-19-2015 02:02 AM           Profile   Send private message  E-mail  Edit post Reply with quote


I'm getting vertigo just looking at that video.

What if you're halfway up a wall and think "cock, I'm not going to make it"? Then what?
I also wonder, you always see people climbing up and then there's the climax when you reach the top. But don't you have to get down after that? Or are they picked up or do some abseiling or whatever? Seems to me that if you have to climb your way down, it's even harder than going up because you can't see the wall below you as well.




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meh...
meh...
Joined: 23 Mar 2000
Posts: 4093
PostPosted: 01-19-2015 10:20 AM           Profile Send private message  E-mail  Edit post Reply with quote


Alex Honnold vids give me the fear chills :S




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Finno-Persian Legend
Finno-Persian Legend
Joined: 04 Jan 2006
Posts: 15689
PostPosted: 01-19-2015 10:54 AM           Profile   Send private message  E-mail  Edit post Reply with quote


Big deal, Geoff has climbed diaper mountain every day of his life.




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Aneurysm
Aneurysm
Joined: 10 Dec 1999
Posts: 12094
PostPosted: 01-21-2015 08:58 AM           Profile   Send private message  E-mail  Edit post Reply with quote


Anyone else sickened how climbers deface this granite wall with all their anchors?




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Etile
Etile
Joined: 19 Nov 2003
Posts: 33767
PostPosted: 01-21-2015 11:26 AM           Profile Send private message  E-mail  Edit post Reply with quote


their




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I'm the dude!
I'm the dude!
Joined: 04 Feb 2002
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PostPosted: 01-21-2015 07:28 PM           Profile Send private message  E-mail  Edit post Reply with quote


Of course. If I ever wanted to experience the natural beauty of Yosemite, having driven down in my V10 engine motor home filled with a big screen TV, jacuzzi, fridge full of beer, too many children and a fat loud wife wearing a Hawaiian print dress and a fanny pack, the last thing I would want on my trip are tiny bolts that are nearly invisible to the naked eye ruining the whole experience. Fuck that, this is America and the land of God. I'm gonna shoot those bolts off with my shotgun and teach those commie climbers the meaning of mother fucking freedom. Support the troops! Fucking A!



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Aneurysm
Aneurysm
Joined: 10 Dec 1999
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PostPosted: 01-21-2015 08:19 PM           Profile   Send private message  E-mail  Edit post Reply with quote


Glad you're as outraged as me.




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I'm the dude!
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PostPosted: 01-21-2015 08:47 PM           Profile Send private message  E-mail  Edit post Reply with quote


Indeed! High five?

o/



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I'm the dude!
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PostPosted: 01-21-2015 08:52 PM           Profile Send private message  E-mail  Edit post Reply with quote




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plained
plained
Joined: 12 Jun 2002
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PostPosted: 01-22-2015 08:16 AM           Profile Send private message  E-mail  Edit post Reply with quote


they should have called it the damm wall!

*shakes fist



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meh...
meh...
Joined: 23 Mar 2000
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PostPosted: 01-22-2015 10:48 AM           Profile Send private message  E-mail  Edit post Reply with quote


obsidian wrote:


fucking lol.

One of my favourites:
"If you can’t do the climb as one continuous route, put off doing it until you get good enough. " :alert:




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Aneurysm
Aneurysm
Joined: 10 Dec 1999
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PostPosted: 06-05-2017 11:58 AM           Profile   Send private message  E-mail  Edit post Reply with quote


Quote:
YOSEMITE NATIONAL PARK, CALIFORNIA—Renowned rock climber Alex Honnold on Saturday became the first person to scale the iconic nearly 3,000-foot granite wall known as El Capitan without using ropes or other safety gear, completing what may be the greatest feat of pure rock climbing in the history of the sport.

He ascended the peak in 3 hours, 56 minutes, taking the final moderate pitch at a near run.


http://www.nationalgeographic.com/adven ... l-capitan/




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PostPosted: 06-05-2017 08:34 PM           Profile Send private message  E-mail  Edit post Reply with quote


Quote:
Freerider, El Capitan 5.12D
Yosemite Valley, California USA

Avg time to climb route: 4 days
Approach time: 10 minutes
Descent time: 4 hours
Number of pitches: 35
Height of route: 2900'

Free Rider is a 4-pitch variation to Salathe Wall. It avoids the two 5.13 pitches on the Salathe Headwall with some 5.12 pitches. Free Rider is currently the easiest and most popular way to say proudly "I have free climbed El Capitan". (You can't proudly say you have free climbed El Cap if you do the West Face or East Buttress because these routes are so far to the sides on much smaller sections of the wall).


NOTE: Free climbing means to climb a route without pulling up on ropes or gear, using only your hands and feet but with ropes and gear for safety. Free soloing (as Honnold is doing here) means climbing without rope or gear at all.

I can barely climb 35' of 5.12D in the gym with a rope, let alone going ropeless on 3000' of Yosemite 5.12D (which is classically known to be heavily sandbagged). He completes it in less than 4 hours where it averages most others 4 days. The hardest I've ever soloed is a 5.0 which I only do as a massive shortcut up and down the cliff. It's basically part of the hike in. No way am I ever soloing something hard or dangerous.



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Aneurysm
Aneurysm
Joined: 10 Dec 1999
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PostPosted: 06-05-2017 08:56 PM           Profile   Send private message  E-mail  Edit post Reply with quote


This part of the article though...


Quote:
Climbers have been speculating for years about a possible free solo of El Capitan, but there have only been two other people who have publicly said they seriously considered it. One was Michael Reardon, a free soloist who drowned in 2007 after being swept from a ledge below a sea cliff in Ireland. The other was Dean Potter, who died in a base jumping accident in Yosemite in 2015.

John Bachar, the greatest free soloist of the 1970s, who died while climbing un-roped in 2009 at age 52, never considered it. When Bachar was in his prime, El Capitan had still never been free climbed. Peter Croft, 58, who completed the landmark free solo of the 1980s—Yosemite’s 1,000-foot Astroman—never seriously contemplated El Capitan, but he knew somebody would eventually do it.


3 dead people. Take a hint guys.




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Digital Nausea
Digital Nausea
Joined: 10 Feb 2001
Posts: 23612
PostPosted: 06-06-2017 07:53 AM           Profile   Send private message  E-mail  Edit post Reply with quote


Honnold has balls, that's for sure. But he's dumb too...




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I'm the dude!
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PostPosted: 06-06-2017 07:59 PM           Profile Send private message  E-mail  Edit post Reply with quote


To be fair, only John Bachar died free soloing (and he was old). The others died doing other things.

As I mentioned earlier, I've free soloed a 5.0 with a 50L backpack full of gear and in running shoes as part of the hike in and out of the crag. As a climber, it's no big deal and well below my ability.

Once, while topping out on the same route, a couple of hikers saw me climbing over the edge and couldn't believe that I climbed up with a rope (or as I explained, I have a rope, it's inside of my bag). To them, what I did was crazy, superhuman, and inconceivable. It's all a matter of perspective; for them I did the impossible, for me it was routine.

Honnold's achievement here certainly carries a far greater difficulty, risk and consequence, but 5.12 is still well below his ability and while it may seem crazy to us, it is less so for him. Read about him and you'll know that he is an extremely detailed oriented guy. He has climbed this particular route over and over again, analyzed the moves, memorized the sequences and is practically able to climb it blindfolded. For him, the risk is minimal because he's just that much better than most of us.



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Karot!
Karot!
Joined: 31 Jul 2001
Posts: 19336
PostPosted: 06-09-2017 02:43 AM           Profile Send private message  E-mail  Edit post Reply with quote


I think my monitor is leaking testosterone from that post Obs, stop it.



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Cool #9
Cool #9
Joined: 01 Dec 2000
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PostPosted: 06-24-2017 07:03 AM           Profile   Send private message  E-mail  Edit post Reply with quote





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