Quake3World

I can get this for under £1k, worth it?

• Coolermaster Elite N300 Case
• Intel i7 6700 3.4ghz CPU
• Gigabyte Motherboard Ultra Durable
• 16GB DDR4 Ram
• Internal DVD‐RW/CD‐RW
• 480GB Solid State Drive
• Windows 7 Professional 64‐bit
• Corsair 550W PSU Silent unit
• Nvidia GTX 750TI Graphics Card

Doombrain wrote:I can get this for under £1k, worth it?

• Coolermaster Elite N300 Case
• Intel i7 6700 3.4ghz CPU
• Gigabyte Motherboard Ultra Durable
• 16GB DDR4 Ram
• Internal DVD‐RW/CD‐RW
• 480GB Solid State Drive
• Windows 7 Professional 64‐bit
• Corsair 550W PSU Silent unit
• Nvidia GTX 750TI Graphics Card

Stumbles into T & T and I am not nerdish I suspect

Those specs look OK to me Doombrain. Any HDDs?
Another question, have you considered fluid cooling? I ask because I am very happy with my liquid cooler.
My newish rig is so quiet compared to my old rig (shares a long desk with Wife - she runs the old rig instead of a laptop (bigger screen))

Doombrain wrote:Ultra Durable

Is that really what their Taiwanese marketing team called it?

Optical drive in 2016? Seems obsolete. I have a USB external optical drive for the very very rare time any one of my computers need one, but quite honestly I don't recall when I've even used that.

Get Windows 10, you old fuddy-duddy.

750TI is several generations behind. If you're trying to keep it on the cheap and don't want the latest/greatest, I'd still spring for something like a 970 since they've dropped significantly in price.

I'd recommend a 1060 instead: better performance than a 970, DX12, and the VRAM advertised isn't a lie like on the 970. It also doesn't make sense to buy older Nvidia cards from a retailer because you won't get a very good deal.

Also the Gigabyte UD motherboard I had years ago was trash, better off going with ASUS or maybe MSI.

Doombrain wrote:I can get this for under £1k, worth it?

• Coolermaster Elite N300 Case
• Intel i7 6700 3.4ghz CPU
• Gigabyte Motherboard Ultra Durable
• 16GB DDR4 Ram
• Internal DVD‐RW/CD‐RW
• 480GB Solid State Drive
• Windows 7 Professional 64‐bit
• Corsair 550W PSU Silent unit
• Nvidia GTX 750TI Graphics Card

If its prebuilt that's not bad. the graphics card is two generations behind though. you could build a much nicer pc for the same price I bet

Here you go.
Compact micro-atx build, latest skylake chipset ready to overclock with the press of a button.
You can probably assemble it in 30 minutes.

http://uk.pcpartpicker.com/list/3rntnn

Captain Mazda wrote: Also the Gigabyte UD motherboard I had years ago was trash, better off going with ASUS or maybe MSI.

My Asus X99 is trash too. For a premium board you'd have thought they could get USB to work.

half the time my devices don't work after booting up and I have to restart. I can't use any encrypted external HDDs because the USB intermittently (like every 15 seconds) drops connection and then the drive needs the key re-inserting. I thought I had the dreaded windows 10 mouselag till I realised it was the USB just spacking out and freezing up. It randomly just fails its mediocre overclock for no reason on boot too.

Useless board. I'm going MSI next time.

I've heard ASUS is hit or miss these days but my Z97 Sabertooth is rock-solid, as was the X58 Sabertooth before it. YMMV depending on the chipset.

I've always gone with Asus in the past, my GPUs and soundcards have been Asus too. I'll be thinking twice after this board though. I'll at least be doing some more indepth research instead of going on the assumption Asus premium price = quality.

Sounds like a faulty board with a shorted USB plug. Why not get it replaced under warranty?

I've had ASUS boards for the last 3 pc's. Just upgraded to an x99 yesterday. *crosses fingers*

I've done quite a bit of reading and whole hosts of people have had USB issues with them, especially the Deluxe version (I have the -S) and Asus have just told them it's their hardware conflicting. You might be okay though, I was a fairly early adopter of X99 and they should have their shit sorted by now.

You're right, however. I need to RMA to see if it sorts the problem, trouble is that it's the computer I use for work and I can't afford the time to swap it out at the moment, especially if it interferes with my windows 10 activation. I can make do by using the ports on the case rather than on the mobo, which have far less issue, I guess because they're handled by a separate controller. I WILL try and get it sorted after this job.

@phantasmagoria

especially if it interferes with my windows 10 activation

just use your win7/8+ key

I completely swapped out cpu/motherboard/ram and Windows 10 booted like nothing happened. All I had to do was re-activate Windows via support chat. $200 saved.

cheers for the info. turns out for now i'm working in the PC gaming peripheral trade for a while so i can get one trade price.

shaft wrote:Here you go.
Compact micro-atx build, latest skylake chipset ready to overclock with the press of a button.
You can probably assemble it in 30 minutes.

http://uk.pcpartpicker.com/list/3rntnn

good site, that's going to come in very handy.

Yup good enough!

Doombrain wrote:I can get this for under £1k, worth it?

• Coolermaster Elite N300 Case
• Intel i7 6700 3.4ghz CPU
• Gigabyte Motherboard Ultra Durable
• 16GB DDR4 Ram
• Internal DVD‐RW/CD‐RW
• 480GB Solid State Drive
• Windows 7 Professional 64‐bit
• Corsair 550W PSU Silent unit
• Nvidia GTX 750TI Graphics Card

I built my own pc 3 to 4 months back and it costed me around $1280.

Specs are:
Intel i7 7700k 4.2 ghz
Asus Z 270 A i7 motherboard
DDR 4 Corsairs 16 gb ram 2 sticks
GPU DDR 5 Rx 480 Radeon 8GB by Gigabyte AMD
Corsair's v650 power supply
Corsair casing black tower gaming x
Wireless gaming keyboard and mouse by corsair